Discovery unusual in the neighborhood saint-paul


Practical information about the discovery Unusual in the St. Paul district

The walk begins at the church of St. Paul - Saint Louis at 99 rue Saint Antoine. You can get off at Metro St-Paul Le Marais on line 1.

Discovery unusual in the St. Paul area: Introduction

Let's go together to explore the southern part of the Marais. He holds many treasures: a village of antique shops in private, an impressive fragment of medieval walls of Philippe Auguste, home of a famous poisoner of the Louis 14 and many other unusual places <. / p>

The neighborhood and the church St. Paul

Ancient Roman road, the Rue Saint Antoine passes right through the Marais. But where does the name of Marais? Well, the name recalls to medieval times, this area was mainly occupied by vegetable crops, let us note in passing, depended mainly on monastic communities. From the late 14th century, as we shall see, the kings of France and settled there for three centuries, the aristocracy joined them there. Let's return to that church Saint Paul - St. Louis before which you are now. It was built in the 17th, not to local residents, but as chapel obviously great, the religious community of the Jesuits.

History of St. Paul's Church

Let's talk about this Jesuit order. It was founded in 1540 by Spanish Ignatius of Loyola, the Society of Jesus, better known under the name of order of the Jesuits, was to defend the Catholic doctrine at the growing success of Protestantism worrying. In Paris, the Jesuits settled in 1580, but five years later they were forced to leave France. King Henry 4 accusing them of inciting one of their students, Jean Chatel, to try to assassinate him. For this alleged crime, they were expelled from the kingdom. A few years later, in 1606, the forgotten case, Louis 13 allowed them to return to France. Witness their comeback, new buildings were built along the Rue St. Antoine. And it was King Louis 13, himself who, in 1627, laid the first stone of the new church. In 1641, he insisted on personally attend the first Mass celebrated in the brand new building and placed for the occasion under the patronage of St. Louis. Brother Martellange, both architect and Jesuit, provides in the plans, but was replaced when the work was far from complete. His successor, Derand father ended by building the dome and facade. Soon, the church, called the great Jesuits acquired considerable fame. This reputation: what was it due? Certainly, there was the talent of its speakers, like the famous Bourdaloue, attracted to their sermons a large crowd; but there was also the quality of sacred music concerts, often led by Marc-Antoine Charpentier; Finally, the profusion of works of art should also strengthen this reputation. In short, all this made it a Mecca of Parisian spiritual life. But this prosperity was short-lived: a dark embezzlement case brought in 1762 the Parliament of Paris to deliver a new expulsion order of the Jesuits. Their estate was then given to the neighboring community of St. Catherine of religious val schoolchildren. Ransacked during the Revolution, the church eventually became parish in 1802 under the name of St. Paul-Saint Louis, calling it preserved until today. In 1795, a school, forerunner of today Charlemagne high school, was installed in buildings where resided originally the Jesuits.

The Church Architecture St. Paul

We will here a short analysis of the architecture of the building. His plan is simple, the nave, that is to say the space where the congregation stands, consists of four bays with side chapels. Transept part of the church intersecting the end of the aisle to form a cross, is very salient. The choir finally, where the priest celebrates Mass, ends with an almost perfect semicircle. However, its sculptural decoration is very exuberant. This contrast perfectly reflects the strong influence of Baroque Italy which prevailed in Parisian architecture during the reign of Louis 13. Recall that the Jesuits then played a fundamental role in the transmission in France of Italian models. So if you know Rome, you will find here many elements from the Church of the Gesu, the first church built for the Jesuit community, and was a source of inspiration for the authors of the St. Paul church - St. Louis . This is undoubtedly the monumental dome of the transept which best reveals this relationship. Note in passing that the French tradition was ignored for a long domes. After the timid attempts of the convent of the Petits Augustins and Saint Joseph Carmelite is the Jesuits Marais that we must first major dome that rose into the sky of Paris. And that's the one you have before you.

The interior of the St. Paul's Church

Now, go under the dome to appreciate the harmonious proportions. Then head to the left transept, ie to the left when you are back at the church entrance. In this transept left arm, an inscription on a sto

ne plaque commemorates the famous preacher Bourdaloue mentioned above. The court ladies flocked to his sermons and, not missing a beat, took with them a container tiled, ironically dubbed "Bourdaloue", which they were using to avoid to be absent if they felt some needs well natural. Next, two tables, hung halfway up, deserve your attention a few moments. nave side, a painting of Simon Vouet represents Saint Louis receiving the crown of thorns of Christ's hands. Let's see. It is part of the art works commissioned by the Jesuits to decorate this church during its construction. The shimmering colors and theatricality attitudes reflect again the taste for the baroque prevailing in the whole church. When we finish the look, we will see just opposite a painting by Delacroix .. Just across therefore the same height, is Christ on the Mount of painted Oliviers in 1826 by Eugene Delacroix, which is, remember, the painter of some of the most famous paintings of the 19th century as "Liberty Leading the people "or" the death of Sardanapalus. " Look out the characters: their feelings read on their face. The melancholy of the angels and the pathetic attitude of Jesus plunges us directly into the world of Romanticism based on the expression of feelings and emotions. In this respect, the painting by Delacroix meets the atmosphere of the poems of Victor Hugo or Alfred de Vigny. Below this panel opens a chapel whose altar is decorated with an amazing terracotta statue of Mary land. It dates from 1586, at which time the church was not yet built. It comes from the royal abbey of Saint-Denis and was taken to the revolution. After many wanderings, it was finally installed in the chapel. The fluidity of Mary draperies and the systematic refusal of any line attached to this work style of artists from the castle, built in the reign of Henry II. We are very far representations of Mary from the late Middle Ages where sculptors often emphasized the elongated shape of the body. Perhaps the artist wanted a'il here give Mary an earthly gravity, symbol of his suffering at the death of his son. Retrace your steps and before leaving the church, take a look at the two giant clams. Even if they have seemingly nothing special, they deserve to be mentioned, because that is Victor Hugo, who lived near Place des Vosges, which offered them to the parish, perhaps to make absolve of his marital infidelities!

The facade of St. Paul's Church

Once out of the church, turn around to gaze majestically. By its very rare structure with three floors, it is reminiscent of Saint-Gervais, the nearby parish of the City Hall. It is especially by its rich sculptural decoration that attracts attention. At the top, a statue of Saint Louis, 19th century is crowned the arms of France and Navarre. The curious gilded bronze clock dates from 1627 and pace even today the activities of residents. Turning back to the front, head to the right until the first right, which is the St. Paul Street. Take this street and walk to St Paul's level number 32, that is to say at the junction with New Street St. Peter. There, look up to see the section of wall the last vestiges of the steeple of the old church Saint Paul that the whole area is named. Even if you need to show much imagination to reconstruct the appearance that the church could be in the Middle Ages, let us not forget that it was, from 1361 to 1559, the parish of the kings of France and what were baptized virtually all royal children until the reign of Louis 11. this is near the hotel saint Paul, where resided Charles 5 and its successors and we will visit later, explains this vocation prestigious. She was sacked and destroyed during the Revolution in 1799. She left her rank of parish in the former Jesuit church that we have just visited and which now bears the double name St. Paul - St. Louis.

The Rue Charlemagne

Continue down St. Paul Street staying on the right hand side to the Rue Charlemagne, we will borrow. A simple way original, this street is bordered on the left by old houses that have kept their part of the 15th century. A little further, a pretty fountain from 1846 adorns the right hand side. Near the fountain, crossing the street to be on the left sidewalk, turn around: you can there enjoy the elegant proportions of the dome St. Paul-Saint-Louis overlooking the roofs of surrounding buildings. Facing you, you will see a large sports field surrounded by three streets. On one side, a section of wall is clear. This is actually a remnant of the most hallowed halls of Paris, called the enclosure of Philip Augustus. A brief history is needed. King Philip Augustus, leaving for the Third Crusade in 1389, decided, before his departure to Paris in the shelter of a possible incursion of enemy troops in the British case. Hence the construction of this enclosure, begun in 1190 on the right bank, continued in 1200 and completed in 1213. To the west of Paris, the newly built fortress of the Louvre watched the outskirts of the capital while at the is less exposed, a simple wall pierced by a postern, marked the limits of Paris. This rampart consisted of two walls of hewn stones: the first out, was perfectly vertical while the second, located on the city side, slightly sloping. At nine meters above the ground, the top formed a paved walkway and embattled. This speaker lost all defensive purposes in the 14th century, that is, when the Parisian population increasingly large had moved beyond its perimeter. The necessity of building a new defensive system is then imposed. Hence the speaker said Charles 5, much longer, which in the late 14th century, girdled Paris Louvre to the Bastille prison. New houses leaned against the old wall, that is to say that you are watching now. Their destruction allowed to deliver the update in several places, including here. Right on the site was located a poterne, that is to say a monumental door protected by two lateral towers.

The Hotel de Sens

Stay on Charles Street and stop a little further to the right at the entrance of the street Provost. Here you are at the entrance to the street of the Provost. Very close it is named after one of its famous inhabitants, Hugues Aubriot, provost or if you prefer mayor of Paris in the 14th century. Continue in the Rue Charlemagne to the next intersection. To the left, take the street of the fig tree, the fig tree in question was removed in the early 17th century- At its end, overlooking a small square, stands the facade of one of the few mansions still standing Middle Ages in Paris: it is the Sense Hotel. Fauconnier Cross the road and get the beginning of the street of the Hail Mary in front. You are at the beginning of the street of the Ave Maria. From there, you enough distance to best appreciate the facade of the famous Hotel de Sens. One word of his story first. Until 1622, Paris was a bishopric which depended on the Archbishop of Sens. The latter, having more work in Paris and Sens, lived mostly in his Paris hotel. In 1475, Tristan de Salazar, both Louis weapons mate 12 on Italian battlefields and Archbishop of Sens, pulled down the old hotel he considered completely outdated. His taste for the arts and for the pomp brought him to rebuild in a modern style. Completed in 1519 in the reign of Francis I, the new hotel was soon considered one of the most beautiful buildings of the Renaissance of Paris, as evidenced by an inscription on its walls and erased from "Tristan, with art all again raised this magnificent building whose dilapidation the ruin. If heaven gives long life to this great man, his memory will be everywhere famous in posterity. " This wish was granted as Tristan de Salazar died at 87 after a particularly busy life. Subsequently abandoned by Renaud de Beaune, Archbishop Sense of the 1600s, the hotel was leased to the famous Queen Margot, the wife of Henry IV repudiated. She quickly made a real gambling den frequented by wildlife rather dubious morals. Although she had more than fifty years, the former queen was not the last to indulge in debauchery with his very young lovers. The Tallemant columnist Reaux has left a portrait sassy, ​​but very evocative: "She was wearing blond hair, a blond bleached tow on the grass. For this, she had big blond footmen we mowed occasionally. She was always there that hair in his pocket afraid to miss. " In 1605, she changed her field of action and moved into the Hotel du Pré aux Clercs, it had just been built on the other side of the Seine. When in 1622, Paris finally became an archbishop, Sens hotel was abandoned by its first owners. Craftsmen and various shopkeepers settled it then. In 1911, the city of Paris bought it and there was restoration work, the rather questionable remaining in order to install the Forney library. The hotel's facade is perhaps the party that suffered the least. Note in particular the two elegant turrets pleasantly mitigate the overall impression of austerity of the set.

The hotel of the court direction

Let's go now in the courtyard of the Hotel. At the back of the court, the central block was originally booked at the apartments reception archbishops: Renaissance beginnings are noticeable, among others in the large mullioned windows on the first floor. Coming out, walk around the hotel and turn right onto the street from the Town Hall to see the back of the facade. You should see the top of the windows, the arms of the archbishops of Sens. Then walk along the garden to come back street of the fig tree.

The St. Paul Village

Here you are in the street of the Ave Maria. This somewhat unusual name is explained by the presence here of a religious community of Beguines, pious women devoted to prayer and charitable works, but did not live cloistered. At number 15, a tennis court room had been converted in the 16th century along the ancient walls of Philip Augustus we have mentioned above. In 1645, Molière, from the palm of game Métayers, located left bank, settled there with his company "the Illustrious Theater". But creditors pursued him relentlessly and brought to jail for debts in the prison of the Grand Chatelet. Released, he was forced to leave Paris for twelve years and roamed the roads of France before returning to the capital. Now continue on the street of the Hail Mary and then turn left, Rue des Jardins St. Paul. On the one hand, on the left you acknowledge the Philippe-Auguste rampart. On the other, on the right, a passage allows access to the current St. Paul village settled many antique dealers. A historical description of what St. Paul Village is needed. It was created in 1358, when King John the Good was held prisoner in England, Paris, under the banner of the provost Etienne Marcel, rebelled against the authority of his son, the Dauphin Charles. One night, the palace of the Ile de la Cité, where Charles lived, was invaded by the rioters and the unfortunate teenager owed his salvation to the leak. Quickly disowned even by his staunch supporters, Etienne Marcel was killed and dolphin made his return to Paris acclaimed by the people. After becoming king in his father's death, he hastened to leave the palace of his ancestors, too exposed in case of revolt of the Parisian population. He confided to the care of a caretaker and moved to the other side of the Seine, not in one but in three royal residences. To the west, the old Louvre fortress was transformed into a sumptuous palace on political and intellectual activities. To the east the Château de Vincennes maintained a defensive function. Finally, in the marshes, Charles 5 was the acquisition of several properties belonging to individuals or monasteries. The whole forming an enclosure, called Saint-Paul, stretched from the Rue Saint Antoine in the Seine. It was not a real palace in regular plan, but a patchwork of homes and apartments connected by a dozen galleries and courtyards in the middle of a vast park. In these gardens, aviary, cages for wild animals and even an aquarium aroused wonder guests of the King. Visitors also discovered two chapels, one for the king, adorned with statues of the apostles and the other completely painted for his wife. It is in this residence 5 Charles received his distinguished guests. Thus in 1378, the Emperor Charles 4 of Luxembourg was welcomed lavishly. But its splendor did not last long and the king's death in 1380, his successor Charles 6 sank slowly into madness. Only a few parties now merry Saint Paul hotel where King lived usually lurking under the rule of his brother Louis of Orleans and his wife, the redoubtable Isabella of Bavaria. Virtually abandoned by all, Charles finally died in 1422 leaving his kingdom in the hands of the king of England. Saint Paul Hotel was gradually fragmented and, knockout, Francis eventually sell to individuals that remained of the buildings. New houses and replaced them, apart from the names of nearby streets -rue 5 Charles Street lions, rue Saint-Paul-gardens nothing remains of the splendor of the Charles residence 5. But let us leave all nostalgia. There thirties, antique decided to give this place its character. The facades of the buildings were then cleaned. The courses were cleared of parked cars that it improperly. The Village Saint-Paul was born.

The street Lions

Now back to the streets of the Ave Maria on the left and quickly join the St. Paul Street From there, take the first street on the right, the street of St. Paul Lions. Its name recalls either the royal menagerie, or lions painted in 1364 on the main gate of Saint Paul Hotel. On each side, the buildings mostly from the first half of the 17th century, bear witness to this prosperous period when the aristocracy had taken up residence in the Marais. Proceed down this street to admire missing only in passing harmonious facades accented sometimes carved patterns and try, wherever possible, to enter the course if they are open. Try including your luck at number 11 where lived the famous Madame de Sevigne whose letters to his friends of the nobility are a valuable testimony on the France of Louis 13.

The Beautreillis Street

Then go to the end of the Lions Street. Left opens Beautreillis street presumed location of the vineyards of Saint Paul Hotel. The vines were carried by mesh, hence the name of the street. Take away a few meters before you take left onto Charles Street 5. Again, beautiful facades classic style await you. But make no mistake. Crime and murder have sometimes taken up residence behind these walls apparently so respectable. Thus, at number 12, this is one of the most famous poisoners of all time who gave himself up to his guilty activities. The daughter of a Parisian notable young Marie-Madeleine de Dreux d'Aubray married in 1651 the marquis marquise; respectable man, if ever there was, but very boring as some. With the help of her lover, the Chevalier Godin, who consoled the rigors of her husband, she experimented on his beautiful family virtues of "inheritance powder" the infallible effects. The growing number of deaths in the entourage of beautiful marquise, more precise suspicions of poisoning were born. Finally arrested, tried and convicted, she was beheaded and then burned up strike, now site of the City Hall. Let us finally speak to the Marquise de Sevigne, its neighbor in the street lions: "Finally, it is all !!, Brinvilliers is in the air: her poor little body was thrown, after running in a very great fire, and his ashes to the wind!  So that we breathe and it will take us some poisonous mood which we are all astonished " Needless to linger to verify predictions of Madame de Sevigne! And when in doubt, soon us get to St. Paul Street that we see there at the end of St. Charles V. Turning right, you will find easily the way to the Church of St. Paul St. Louis, holiness haven and piety.